Methods of extracting fragrance have long relied on traditional techniques—distillation, maceration, enfleurage. These approaches gave perfumery many great classics, but they all share a common issue: high temperatures, lengthy processes, and the loss of delicate molecules. This is why perfumers, engineers, and chemists turned to new physical methods that preserve volatile compounds without distorting their structure. One of the most promising is ultrasound—a wave that can be “tuned” to molecules.
Technologies at the intersection of biochemistry, engineering, and olfactory art are beginning to bear fruit. Now, it’s possible to extract scents from materials that were previously unstable or technically challenging. Green coffee, live flowers, rare woods, or even fermented ingredients can now be accessed. Ultrasound makes the process faster, cleaner, and more environmentally sound. Most importantly, it opens the door to next-generation perfumes with nearly no loss during extraction.
How ultrasonic extraction works in perfumery
Ultrasonic extraction uses high-frequency sound waves passed through a liquid or solvent, triggering a process called cavitation. Tiny bubbles form and collapse rapidly, creating intense local pressure and temperature. These microbursts break down the cellular walls of raw plant material, releasing aromatic compounds.
The main advantage is that the process occurs at low temperatures, which prevents thermal degradation of volatile ingredients. This is essential in perfumery, where many crucial notes—citrus esters, floral facets, green nuances—are destroyed by heat. Ultrasound preserves them intact.
Perfumery labs are increasingly experimenting with custom parameters: wave frequency, exposure duration, and type of solvent. For example, extracting rose compounds may involve mild ethanol and a 40 kHz wave for 15 minutes, while coffee oil demands a different protocol. Everything depends on the plant tissue structure and the perfumer’s goal.
This flexibility makes ultrasonic extraction a powerful tool not only for major brands but also for indie labs looking to work with rare raw materials. What was once impossible—such as capturing a natural cucumber note without synthetics—is now feasible.
Advantages over traditional extraction methods
Classic techniques like steam distillation or fat maceration have served perfumery for centuries and are still in use. But they have clear limitations that ultrasound overcomes. The key difference lies in preserving delicate molecules. Where distillation flattens or simplifies a scent, ultrasound maintains its intricate subtleties.
Another benefit is speed. Maceration can take weeks; ultrasound does it in hours. This dramatically shortens the timeline for fragrance development. Labs producing exclusive contracts can adapt more quickly to perfumers’ requests without compromising quality.
There’s also an ecological edge. Ultrasound uses less solvent, making the process more sustainable. Some brands already highlight this as a marketing feature, emphasizing that their scents are produced “without heat and with energy efficiency.”
Finally, this method is modular. It can be combined with others: pre-maceration, post-fractionation, or vacuum drying. These hybrid setups allow customized protocols tailored to each ingredient’s unique profile.
What scents have been made possible through ultrasound
One of the most striking examples is fig blossom extract—a scent that used to be considered too fragile to capture. It has a volatile mix of leafy green, juicy pulp, and dry bark notes. Ultrasound preserved this complex balance without collapse or loss.
Another breakthrough is natural green coffee extract, unroasted and fresh. It holds grassy, leathery, and earthy tones that are lost during roasting. Ultrasound allowed this aromatic snapshot to be frozen in time and used in niche compositions seeking a non-sweet coffee note.
Ultrasound has also enabled perfumers to extract fragrance from bird cherry and stone fruits, where unstable seed and skin compounds typically degrade during distillation. This process captures almond-like nuances with a full-bodied aroma—all-natural, no synthetic aldehydes.
Some brands now include ultrasonic basil or perilla extracts to add green crunchiness, something previously only achieved with artificial molecules. Now, it’s done using real plants with high clarity and no bitterness.
Who’s using ultrasound in perfumery today
Despite being relatively new, the technology is already applied by both large fragrance groups and niche independents. Particularly active are brands operating at the crossroads of culinary and perfumery arts. For them, capturing the essence of truffle, green tea, or fermented dairy requires both depth and precision.
In Grasse-based labs, often contracted by niche brands, ultrasound is used alongside gas chromatography to analyze molecular structure and replicate results with high consistency. This precision is essential in crafting high-end fragrances with minimal batch variation.
Some small brands in Scandinavia and Japan are working with local botanicals—mosses, berries, seaweed. Ultrasound allows efficient processing without needing industrial heat or exotic solvents.
There are even startups offering desktop ultrasonic extractors for artisan perfumers. These tools make it possible to work with rare, site-specific materials directly—no need to ship them away for processing, which often results in aroma loss.
Which scent notes are lost in distillation and saved by ultrasound
Steam distillation often destroys top notes—they evaporate too quickly or get altered by heat. These include:
- lime and bergamot esters, which decompose rapidly
- cucumber, melon, feijoa components, which are nearly impossible to stabilize traditionally
Ultrasound can operate below 40 °C, which is critical for preserving these fragile compounds. Cavitation also enhances solvent penetration into plant tissues, drawing out molecules that would otherwise remain trapped.
Another benefit is reduced oxidation. Traditional methods can overheat ingredients, causing a burnt or metallic smell. Ultrasound minimizes air contact, especially when used in sealed chambers or under vacuum.
Thanks to this, we can now preserve fragrances once considered unworkable: lilac in bloom, freshly cut grass, young pine needles—all are now viable for perfumery use.
Challenges and limitations of the technology
Despite its benefits, ultrasound is not a universal solution. For one, the technology demands precise calibration, and poor handling can destroy desirable molecules or cause uneven extraction. This is especially true with ingredients containing unstable compounds.
The equipment is also expensive and delicate. It’s difficult to scale for industrial use, particularly with large raw material volumes. Some types of extractors require special ventilation, hermetic seals, or cooling systems, which complicates implementation for small producers.
There’s also the issue of batch inconsistency. Aromatic extracts may vary between runs, especially when raw materials aren’t standardized. This requires skilled operators and careful oversight of every step in the process.
Still, the field is evolving. Hybrid systems combining ultrasound with microwave heating or infrared spectroscopy are already emerging. These tools signal that ultrasound isn’t a passing trend but a serious advancement in perfumery’s future.
In the future, such technologies may allow perfumers to explore scents that haven’t even been categorized yet. If salt can become a recognized note that surprises and enhances compositions, then ultrasound might make it possible to extract the scent of tide, unripe mango bark, or wet river stones. To explore this concept further, see Salt in scent: why perfumers add salty notes.
Questions and answers
It works at low temperatures, preserving volatile and delicate compounds that would otherwise be destroyed by heat.
Yes, that’s one of its key strengths—it enables perfumers to work with raw materials that were previously unstable or inaccessible.
Yes, it requires costly equipment, precise settings, and skilled technicians to ensure consistent and effective results.